Postcards From Harth: Achiltibuie 🦭

A HARTH GUIDE TO ACHILTIBUIE

For the second in our Postcards from Harth series, we’re heading to the opposite end of the country, to the wild west coast of Scotland.

The village of Achiltibuie sits on the Coigach peninsula, looking out towards the Summer Isles. Backed by dramatic mountains and open Atlantic skies, it’s a breathtakingly beautiful place: remote, elemental, and deeply restorative.

Here’s what not to miss.

 

 

WHERE TO STAY

Choose between a private pod or a dorm room at Acheninver Hostel. The views are incredible, there are great walks straight from the door, and it has its own beach for swimming. A perfect base camp.

WHERE TO STOCK UP

Pick up your Harth fix at West Coast Delicatessen on your way through Ullapool, along with some of the best Scottish cheese around. 

Achiltibuie Stores might be the best-stocked village shop at the end of the world. It has everything you need and more. Order prawns and scallops fresh from the boat (they arrive in an authentic fisherman's bucket), and don't leave without trying some Scottish butteries, which fisherman would traditionally take out to sea.

WHERE TO SWIM

There are countless beautiful beaches, but our favourite is on Isle Ristol, an uninhabited Scottish Wildlife Trust reserve. Accessible by paddleboard, kayak or boat from Old Dornie Harbour, it's long white sands are a perfect place to swim, and to hunt for elusive cowrie shells.

 

WHERE TO SAUNA 

Teuchter sauna is a roaming, wood-fired barrel sauna that moves between beaches around the Coigach peninsula. Drop them a DM to find out where they're parked up and book a session. Cold dips in the burn or straight into the sea.

 

WHAT TO CLIMB

Pick a clear day for the two-hour walk up Stac Pollaidh and you'll be rewarded with panoramic views of the Summer Isles and Suilven. Pack some Tunnocks Tea Cakes and a flask of Harth to keep you going.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Warm up with coffee by the fire at Am Bothan, a beautifully renovated community hub that feels like it's always been there and tells the story of the largest of the Summer Isles, Tanera Mor.

For supper, book a table at Am Fuaran (Gaelic for 'the well') in Altandhu. A traditional local bar with excellent fresh seafood. The scampi is our favourite.

 

WHAT TO DO

If you can bring bikes, do. The scenic downhill free-wheels are unforgettable.

And then it's all about the walks. One favourite is the well-marked Peat Path, starting at Polbain. Another gem is the circular coastal walk from Achnahaird Beach to Garvie Bay, where you're almost guaranteed to spot seals lounging on the rocks. You can also see them by kayak with Kayak Summer Isles.